My daughter is a group leader for a company that hosts international students spending a summer vacation in the San Francisco area and this year’s crop hails from Spain. Usually regimented with a detailed agenda of activities that daily lead them to and fro amidst the iconic cultural and recreational experiences the city has to offer (those which can be enjoyed by a ‘sorry, you’re not legally old enough to drink that here‘ crowd) the timing of the World Cup in South Africa has created new resume skills she can point toward: flexibility and creativity.
Yesterday’s Germany vs. Spain semi-final match is the classic case in point. Scheduled to be near Fisherman’s Wharf for most of the day making the rounds of the T-shirt shops, wax museum, crab stands and lounging sea lions, the group of twenty five or so high-school-aged hormone factories made it known they’d gladly boycott the tourist zone trinket shops and anchovy-diving mammals for the chance to see their country play a potentially historic World Cup match (a win would put España in the final game for the first time ever)– but with an 11:30am local time start to the match the challenge became where to land a group so large but unable to open a beer tab. There was talk of a restaurant for a long lunch but my daughter has worked as a server and quickly realized filling an entire section for two hours during the rush with “I’ll have a Coke and we’ll split an order of fries” kids just looking to kill time while their national team spends a couple of hours running around an acre and a half looking for one or two good chances to score a goooooooooooooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaal would draw instant ire from any fellow “hey, I work for tips and you’re killin’ me” wait staff. Raging [teenaged nationalistic] hormones aside, she just couldn’t do it to a fellow restaurateur. These are the moments a father lives for…. Hearing her share her dilemma with a friend, my semi-annual contribution to the ‘Daddy is old but Daddy can be wise’ pile came to me almost immediately: re-route the pilgrimage from Pier 39 to Civic Center Plaza and hang out with the homeless for a couple of hours.
People will tell you that San Francisco is a lot of things– good and bad things alike and we could argue which is which– but one thing hard to dispute is that San Francisco is a world-class city, a world-class destination, and one of the most cosmopolitan places on Earth. The city is only seven miles by seven in its entirety and quite manageable on foot.
If you’re a tourist, the best time to visit San Francisco is October when the inland summer heat that draws the fog in from the sea during the summer months has calmed and San Francisco weather and temperature seem more like a Côte d’Azur Mediterranean vacation than an Arctic expedition (though if you’re a sweatshirt vendor you still prefer those summer tourists who arrive thinking California is one long Malibu row of lifeguard stands with bikinis and surfboards and tans). In July a trip downtown might be pleasant and comfortable but it just as easily might require a parka and ski goggles for the foggy mist and chilly winds as you walk along Market Street. There’s just no predicting unless you look at the forecast a hundred miles away in Stockton or Sacramento. One thing you can predict, though, is that whatever neighborhood you frequent in San Francisco on any given day, you’ll find plenty of tourists speaking plenty of languages and staring at guidebooks. It’s that assurance that tourists will congregate that made me think to send the kids off to Civic Center Plaza– normally a place reserved for street people and derelicts (who, surprising to many, aren’t always the same thing).
San Francisco is a good civic host and we try to make people feel comfortable and welcome (if you don’t believe that, ask every homeless person you meet here where they came from…). As part of making people feel welcome and still encouraging them to get out and enjoy the city and spend those hard-earned Euros and Pounds, and Yen, the Parks and Recreation Department decided to install a huge screen TV in Civic Center Plaza to allow a public place for people to watch the various World Cup soccer matches (a rumor that the most vocal of the homeless population threatened a class-action suit against the city for not providing adequate access to the World Cup experience is unconfirmed though it certainly soundslike a San Francisco kind of case).
Regardless of motive, San Francisco (like Seattle and other progressive cities) made the World Cup a massive public event and did so in a way that minimized the inevitable spike in public drunkenness normally associated with a major sporting event in this country.
The kids from España yelled and screamed and cheered for most of the 93 minutes it took for their team to outplay, embarrass, and summarily dispatch the German team. The score was 1-0 but in fairness it wasn’t this close. The match never really seemed like the Spanish team was in jeopardy of losing– they played aggressively and spent most of the match on the offensive side of the pitch (see, even old Daddy’s can learn new phrases). There were the usual player flops– mysterious ‘sniper shots’ where a player suffers what must appear from one angle as a brutal foul but from another reveals absolutely no contact was made– but I never noticed any bad enough to warrant the ridiculous stretcher team dragging the [malingering] bad actors from the field of play only to see them pop up laughing on the sideline.
I used to think the NBA was ridiculous for allowing players to flop on a foul. NBA players are babes in the woods compared with their counterparts in the World Cup.
My daughter writes today that she had to phone a host family father and ask permission to enter his home looking for one of the exchange students who failed to show up on time for a scheduled trip to see Alcatraz Island. After an hour of holding up the group from departing they found him asleep in his bed at his host family home. Clearly the post-game celebration sapped all his strength. Either that or he doesn’t own a parka. I hope he wasn’t flopping for the crowd.
For those who come to San Francisco
Summertime will be a love-in there
Scott McKenzie — San Francisco (1967)






































